Fabric Cutting Techniques

The marker is put on the layers of fabric with the conventional method, a skilled cutter follows the pattern outlined on the marker, using a strait–knife machine with a long, thin blade that vibrates vertically as it is pushed through many layers of fabric. A vertical knife can cut to a depth of 9 inches. For only a few layers, a cutting machine with a rotating circular knife may be used. The cutter must select the correct speed and blade for each type of fabric. For example, a coarse blade edge is used for tightly woven fabrics and a smooth edge for softer fabrics. The cutting tools (cutters) can be classified in to

Portable cutters
Powered scissors- these are used for cutting one or two piles and are often used in the sample room.
Round knife- this is a very fast machine, excellent for cutting straight lines or gradual curves. Blade sizes range from 4cm to 20cm in diameter and the effective cutting height is about 40 per cent of the blade diameter.
Straight knife-the workhouse of most cutting rooms, the straight knives, if correctly used, is versatile and accurate enough for most purposes.
Stationary cutters
Band knife – the narrow blade of this machine allows the finest of shapes to be cut very accurately.
Press cutting- this process involves the use of a hydraulic press which forces a shaped metal cutting die through a pile of material and is mostly used when large quantities of small components have to be cut very accurately. Press cutting is also often used for cutting many of the components for leather and suede garments.

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